Jelleke's Journeys: Excursion into Ferghana Valley

The reason to go was the invitation for the

wedding party of Zyo, a colleague of Robert. We were expected at 14:00 at Manangan, not knowing what to expect. So, together with Yasur, a former colleague with car, and a good driver as well, we set out on Friday 7:30 for what in fact was a three day holiday and excursion into this part of the country.

Fergana Valley is almost as large as the Netherlands, measuring 200 kms in length en 150kms width. But to get there is a 5 hours drive, crossing the mountain range via a high pass, a few tunnels and a proper border control etc. On the map to the right, Tashkent would be at the location of the last n of mountain (4 lines up).

The wedding was a surprise. We happened to be invited for only the first part of a three day event, which we hadn't understood. Friday afternoon was for the bridegrooms’ friends and relatives. The VIPs ( = we and a German guy who had flown in the day before and came late) were led into a room at a table full of fruit and food; the Uzbekistan friends in another room, having the same good treatment on the floor, which is the custom here. And different foods being served the whole afternoon!

Zyo, his father and the VIP guests -->

As yAs you
can imagine, I was an exception, as all the women were (naturally !?) in the kitchen, to do all the work. When we left and I wanted to say goodbye to Zyo’s mum, feeling that at least I should honor her for being his mum and the hostess and the lady in charge, it became a special event and I wasn’t allowed to leave before I got a special present, a few meters of the locally made silk enough for a dress!

We left for our hotel. Which unfortunately was next to the garden/ bar where the start of the UEFA cup was being broadcasted on a large screen. We experienced all the goals and the excitement about them, especially the Russia- Czech match! We thought we could go to sleep after the second match but a third one was on, bad luck.

The next morning was another part of the wedding ceremony: at 05:00 plov (pilav) was being served for the men (about a thousand!). Robert and Yasur went there.

At 07:30 we left for Margilan, another 2,5 hours drive right through the fertile loess valley, which looks like the latest Dutch polders, flat, with a lot of canals (here for irrigation rather than drainage) and Poplars, Mulberry trees (cut back like our willowtrees, to feed the silkworm), wheat and cotton and vegetables.

In Margilan we visted a modest silk factory and were shown the whole process from cooking the cocoons into silk threads, to colouring, weaving, knitting carpets (1 cm a day, by two girls from 8am -5 pm).

Afterwards, we were quite unexpectedly invited by family of Yasur, to the one-week-after-the wedding-party. It is custom that exactly a week after a wedding, the extended family comes to greet the new bride, who will bow three times for each guest. So we were there, being very warmly welcomed, with more food, more plov! And a very beautiful bride!

From there we went to Rishtan, another hours’ drive though mainly agricultural land, to a ceramics making family. Indeed they were there, and showed us how they make mainly teacups. The sun is so hot that they don’t need an oven to dry the cups! The 8 women doing the painting in a cosy and shady place.

We slept in Kokand, another old Silk Road city, where the mosks, the palace of the Khan and his 40 concubines, and many Madrassa’s have been demolished in 1919 by the soviets. We went to a very nice B&B, of a family famous for its woodwork. The lady in charge made us very welcome, prepared a lovely meal and we relaxed in her yard within the compound.

Next morning, Sunday, we visited the restored Jumi mosk, with pillars of red hardwood form India, the restored Kahns palace and a beautiful mausoleum, all very worthwhile.