25-04-2011

Easter Monday to Tipova Cave Hermitage

With a project car, the driver Anatoli, Alexander (a Dutch collaegue and friend) we set out on a tour to visit:
1. a recently rehabilitated monastery in Curchi,
2. the Tipova waterfalls and hermitage (rock monasteries overlooking the Dniestr river) , 3. the gorge at Saharna. 
The landscape is beautiful:  trees beginning to show a fresh green, and cherries blossoming white ...


  
The monastery in Curchi is so new that the chandeliers and other ornamenst are still packed in plastic. We discover that we have never ever seen a church newly built and decorated like this. 
The sight at / of the Dniestr river is amazingly beautiful, a shallow and slow going river with reeds groing in its inner bends, very natural, here and there  willowtrees showing the 'natural succession' of which - I am sure - the Dutch ecologists woud be jealous! 

The hermitage is impressive - how have people been living here? No way to grwo food, so dependant on what others would have brought. And especially surviving in winter time seems a hard job, when it's cold and there is snow everywhere around!

Underway we notice that in the villages people still get their water fom a well. Yes,  hauling it wth a bucket, like they used to do in our fairytales and legends. There's a problem here, since there is a lot of arsenicum in the water, children (and adults!) suffer from braindamage.  






We end this spectacular day with a walk to yet another waterfalls - underway we see dark red nettle, and wild bluebells.
After that it is 1,5 hours back to Chisinau where we eat a schaslick at a restaurant, outside on the terrace in the sun! And the go home quickly to download pictures, work on the weblog, call home to the kids and  go to bed early. 


To Italy for the waterpolo LEN trophy

On wednesday April 20st, Robert and I flew with Air Moldova to Milano airport,
rented a car there and drove 2,5 hours to Rapallo, a beautiful port, just south of Genova on the Ligurian coast, to attend the finals of the European cup, which Meike was playing with her team that evening. As you may have seen on the news they lost terribly, also due to one of the refereees being very much in favour of the Italian team, and so psychologically undermining the Dutch team. 

However it was also due to the Dutch supporters, shouting so loudly hat the players couldn't hear the referee's whistle on important occasions such as the penalty, which they therefore lost. 
Silly, how it can work out! I have never ever in my life been so angry, so flabbergasted about a supposedly neutral, sworn-in referee, behaving as he did and us being so unmighty!   But we were there: Iris (Meike's best friend ever since Arnhem International school)  flew in from England, as her sister did; also Marleen, their mother and big supporter of Meike, flew in from Holland. So the support was in place. 

The day after we went all together to Camoglie, to ease the sad event and the bad feelings
We spent a real nice morning together!
and enjoyed the rest of the day in this beautiful area, like a real holiday..


Had a wonderful afternoon,  read our books very relaxed in the hotel garden, and ate well (fresh fish!)

16-04-2011

Saturday in Chisinau

Market, Museum and Streetflowers.

Today, Saturday April 16th, we first go to the main market - it's enormous, terribly crowded, like in Africa- and you can find anything you need. We buy a proper furcoated hat, getting the price down to half. Interesting and new to us is the department for pickles: next to the customary cucumber there's cabbage and watermelon(!) and other vegetables that we would never think of eating sauer.
Robert and I buy traditional lunch food: bread inbaked with potatoes and fresh cheese and herbs.







Then there are lots of plastic flowers!

Next we have a cafe latte in a very european cafĂ©; then go to the national museum where they have an impressive collection, covering the whole history of this area, starting from 3000 years BC till the second world war. 

The museum looks like a French Loire castle and in the garden we find various stele's from befor Christ. Inside it is ever so beautiful, like a Viennese Palace:
The influence of the tartars was made visible through the new and different style of pottery










Here are female figurines dating back from 800 BC , a pendant from the same era and golden Dacian coins (Dacia being the rich civilisation that was plundered by the Romans when they invaded this region around 100 AD for their fertile soils and at the same time took away all the gold treasures- all this recounted on the column of Trajan in Rome

Then there were paintings and posters showing the way the people experience the supression...
the nuns thrown out of their monasteries by the Communists, beginning 20st century, and the victory over the Germans (and Rumanians) after the second world war...
In the afternoon we went to the main street where women sell wild flowers and bought a bunch for the weekend.....

13-04-2011

Moldovan-Romanian History

Since we are looking at the world from a trans-European viewpoint nowadays, it is fascinating to learn more about the history, both by looking around in the streets and recognising beautiful late 19th century buildings, Hungarian-Viennese style, watching the 'street of fame' (statues of important people of the last 2 centuries) in the park and by reading about it. 



the Dacian king

Ancient Romania was inhabited by Thracian tribes; from the 1st century BC there used to be a rich Dacian kingdom here with a lot of  gold and treasures, which were all taken by the Romans when they invaded in 101-2 AD; the Romans mixed with the conquered tribes which led to a Daco-Roman people speaking Latin. And this is all  to be seen on the Trajan's column in Rome!

Dacian Cote of Arms

At that time in the Netherlands we didn't even have much of a civilisation yet...just moors.  

From the 4th till the 10th century waves of migrating peoples , Goths, Huns, Avars, Slavs, Bulgars and Magyars (Hungarians) swept across these territories each leaving their mark on local culture, language and gene pool.


From the 10th century the Magyars expanded into Transylvania, north and west of the Carpathian Mountains, and by the 13th century all of Transsylvania was an autonomous principality under the Hungarian crown.


St Stefan cel Mare
 In the 14th century prince Basarab 1 (r.1310-52) united various political formations in the region south of the Carpatians to create the first Romanian principality, Wallachia, dubbed Tara Romaneasca (Romanian Land)
                                                 Stephan cel Mare. Throughout the 14th and 15th centurys, Wallachia and Moldavia offered strong resistance to the Ottoman's (Turkish) northward expansion.    A legendary figure here was Stephan cel Mare, hence the main street called after him, his big statue there, and his figure on the 1 LEI banknote. After the Ottoman victory in Transsylvania in the 16th century, Wallachia and Moldavia also paid tribute to the Turks but maintained their autonomy. In 1683 the Turks were defeated at the gates of Vienna, in 1687 Transsylvania came under Habsburg rule.  

 
 
 


Moldavian Cote of Arms

The 17th century in Wallachia (south of the Carpaths)) was marked by the lengthy reign of Constantin Brancoveanu, a period of relative peace and prosperity, characterised by great cultural and artistic renaissance. In 1775 part of Moldavia's norhtern territory, Bucovina (where the painted monasteries are), was annexed by Austria-Hungary. This was followed by the loss of its eastern teritory - Bessarabia (most of which is present day Moldova) - to Russia.

Independance in 1877. While in the 19th century presentday Romania was ruthlessly "Magyarised" under a ruthless Austrian-Hungary rule, Wallachia and Moldavia prospered. In 1859, with French support, Alexandru Ioan Cuza was elected to the Thrones of Moldavia and Wallachia, creating a national state, United Romanian Principalities. With Russian assistance(! ) Romania declared independance of the Ottoman empire in 1877.

The warrior queen. "There is only one man in Romania and that is the Queen". that is how a french diplomat described Queen Marie ( 875-1938, granddaughter of Britains Queen Victoria). Despite widespread horror in Britain at her mismatch to a prince (Ferdinand 1) of a semi barbaric country, Marie developed a strong kinship with Romania. She ran a cholera hospital during the second Balkan war (1913) and set about reorganising apallingly makeshift hospitals in Iasi.  

WW-I the defeat of Austria-hungary in 1918 paved the way for Greater Romania, ratified in 1920 under the Treaty of Trianon: Bessarabia, east of the river Prut (present Moldova), and since 1812 under Russian flag, was joined again; like wise Bucovina.    

WW-II Not for long! Greater Romania collapsed in june 1940 in accordance with the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. The USSR re-occupied Bessarabia and called it the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic. Bessarabia experienced terrifying Sovietisation, marked by the deportation of 300.000 Romanians to a.s. Siberia. In 1941 allied Romanian and German troops attacked the Soviet union. Bessarabia and Transdniestr fell into Romanian hands. Thousands of Bessarabian Jews were rounded up in labour camps in Transdniestr, from where they were deported to Auschwitz. 

In august 1944 the Soviet army reoccupied Transdniestr and Bessarabia and continued where they had left off. Between 1949 and 1952 ( I was born in that time) almost 300.000 were deported to siberia and Kazakhstan. Streetnames were changed and Russian-style patronymics were included in people's names.

Independence,  August 1991. Moldova declared its full independence.
Hence this huge freedom monument!




11-04-2011

A beautiful opera in Chisinau !!!

Sunday afternoon we went to the Opera, Don Giovanni, Mozart.

The building  looks from the outside very much communist:  impressive, as if meant for the education of the common people. Inside it looked like a concert hall from before the war, stylish in an old fashioned way, with a lot of nicely carved wood.

Then, the music: phenomenal! Pure and beautiful voices, no hidden microphones, good acoustics, superb play! Chapeau! 
I was astonished! I actually  wonder if we can still do such performances in the Netherlands, without any technical help to adjust the sounds, and I don't think so! Amazingly good this! And then the beautifully made dresses: superb!


It's cold inside and so everyone wears their wintercoats. There are many children between 6 and 18, well dressed and their hair nicely plaited, that's all very common here! Maybe that's why they start at 16:00?